If you've spent time exploring the Texas barbecue scene of the last decade, or reading our coverage of it, you know that the world of smoked meats has experienced a generational evolution. No longer do Texas barbecue lovers solely expect the brisket, ribs and sausage that have been staples at hundreds of the state's barbecue joints for decades.
The current generation of cooks are showcasing new cuts and flavor profiles, from places as far afield as Egypt and Vietnam, illustrating that the humble barbecue of Texas' history has vast potential for evolution and reminding us that the process of slow cooking meats is a tradition that appears around the world.
In addition to new cuts, techniques and flavors, the current generation of Texas barbecue is also serving up welcome diversity, with people of color and women creating platforms for their voices in a Texas industry long-dominated by white men and influenced by the state's Central and Eastern European roots.
The New York Times this week highlighted 20 Texas barbecue restaurants, from Fort Worth to Weslaco and Marfa to Houston, that represent the vanguard of this new "golden age" of Texas barbecue. The feature story supporting the list was reported and written by multi-time James Beard award-winning food journalist Brett Anderson, who regularly visits Texas from his home in New Orleans , where he for two decades was the restaurant critic at the New Orleans Times-Picayune. Fellow Times food writer Priya Krishna, a native of Dallas, wrote the list of the 20 Best Texas Barbecue Restaurants From the New Generation, with Anderson. Full disclosure: I contributed reporting to the story.
Austinites, who likely consider the state capital the new capital of Texas barbecue, will no doubt recognize the names the appeared in the NYT piece, all of which, outside of the newest member, have made our lists of Austin's best barbecue in the past. The Central Texas representation among the 20 includes the following (my recommended dishes at each appear in parentheses, with some naturally mirroring those of the Times writers):
Barbs B Q
Barbs B Q: No, this is not an Austin restaurant, but you'll find plenty of Austinites queued outside of this Lockhart restaurant on Saturday mornings. A trio of women opened the small new spot on the historic town square in the states official barbecue capital. The diversity extends from ownership to the menu, where you'll find lamb chops and green spaghetti. (Recommended dishes by the American-Statesman: lamb chops that taste like they were pulled from a crawfish boil, the best beef rib I've eaten maybe ever, brisket and pork ribs.) | Previous American-Statesman coverage.
Distant Relatives
Distant Relatives: New England native Damien Brockway left a long career in fine dining to explore his personal heritage and trace the roots of the African influence on American cooking. Perfect for: understanding where much "American" food comes from and drinking a stellar IPA from landlord Meanwhile Brewing. (Recommended: chicken leg quarter, brisket sandwich with green tomatoes, pulled pork, pickled carrots.) | Previous American-Statesman coverage here and here.
Related:Museum reckons with race in Austin while celebrating three exceptional Black chefs
Kemuri Tatsu-Ya
Kemuri Tatsu-Ya: The owners of Austin's most popular ramen restaurant opened their Japanese-Texas izakaya roadhouse in 2017 and the restaurant is still one of Austin's most exciting, intriguing and unique concepts. The group opened a barbecue-ramen hybrid restaurant last spring that recently closed after about a year in business. My favorite food of theirs comes off the grill or appears on the snacks menu. (Recommended dishes: brisket-and-gouda stuffed Hot Pocketz, chicken heart skewer, scallop skewer, marinated octopus, the massive Japanese whiskey list.) | Previous American-Statesman coverage.
LeRoy and Lewis
LeRoy and Lewis: Evan LeRoy combines a chef's palate with a culinary curiosity that leads to dishes like smoked beef cheeks, beet-hued barbecue sauce and housemade kimchi at the trailer he operates with partner and service head honcho Sawyer Lewis. The business will open a brick-and-mortar location in South Austin later this year. (Recommended dishes: barbacoa, beef cheeks, whole hog, cheeseburger.)
Related:Austin’s best barbecue truck, LeRoy and Lewis, opening a restaurant in South Austin
Valentina's Tex Mex BBQ
Valentina's Tex Mex BBQ: Miguel Vidal honors his South Texas roots, folding smoked meats into housemade tortillas and lacing them with bright salsas and creamy guacamole. The original Texas fusion food. Valentina's recently opened a massive restaurant in Buda after a decade operating out of a trailer. (Recommended dishes: brisket, carnitas and chicken tacos; pork ribs.)
Photos:Take a look inside the new Valentina's Tex-Mex BBQ, now open in Buda
