In this Marquette house, every night is a party.
The beer is flowing, the music is playing, the people are mingling inside and outsideand, somewhere in the scrum, you'll probably find David Manson and Andy Langlois, who threw it all together. And everyone knows them.
A decade ago, they were working in floundering careers. Manson, born and raised in Marquette, was working in pharmaceuticals as he decided to start brewing beer in his basem*nt with Langlois, who he met through friends of friends (it's a small town, Mansonpoints out).
In 2010, the pair bought a 2,100-square-foothouse, more than a century old, at the corner of Third and Michigan. Theyserved their first beer there later that year.
Today, Blackrocks Brewery isthe Upper Peninsula's second-largest brewery and among Michigan's Top 15 brewers, pumping out 7,500 barrels in-state in 2018, according to state tax data.
And it all started with Manson,Langlois andthis burlywood house.
"Why can't a welcoming, comforting environment like this one be a brewery?" Manson asked.
On this warm July night, Manson made his rounds. He sat at the end of the bar to chat with customers,helped the bartenders dish beers when the evening rush kicked in, and latermade his way to the back patio as the sun went down and the music kicked on. And not a minute went by when someone didn't walk up to him to say hello and catch up.
"This is fun," Manson said. "That's what makes it us, makes it charming."
And this, in essence, is what makes many Upper Peninsula breweries so desirable to visit, the same way your favorite small-town bar draws you in every time you're passing through: It feels like home, even if it isn't. You meet people from all walks of life, from locals to travelers, from beer enthusiasts to social butterflies, and they're welcoming to anyone who steps in the door looking for a bite or a drink.
Oh, and of course: The beer is good. Really good.
Here are sevenessential breweries to visit the next time you're in the Upper Peninsula.
Ore Dock Brewing Co.
114 W. Spring St., Marquette
Andrea and Wes Pernsteiner are like any other craft beer enthusiast: When they visit new places, they root out their local beers.
They were inspired to open Ore Dock during a trip to the West Coast, home to some of the biggest and best craft breweries in America,in 2009. They came to love not just the beer, but the atmosphere, and how each brewery uses local ingredients and cultivates the local community.
"We wanted to bring craft beer and community together," Andrea said. And not just anywhere, but in the Upper Peninsula, which they came to love.
The Pernsteiners opened Ore Dock in downtown Marquettein 2012, starting with a 100-page business plan and financing through local banks. While they started with traditional beers, they expanded their portfolio, now even offering a hard seltzer for gluten-free folks ("We want to be all-inclusive," Andrea said). They're especially proud of being in Marquette, right along Lake Superior, where they get the water for their drinks.
The Belgian-inspired beers are particularly tasty. The Fresh Coast (7.5%), a Belgian IPA, has a good hop profile, a floral aroma anda deep tropical taste with citrus notes. For those who like dark beers, the Porter (5.7%) is a fine option; it's dark, roasty with lingering chocolate and a smooth finish.
Beyond all that, however, Ore Dock is about bringing people together. The brewery hosts around 350 private events a year, Andrea Pernsteiner said, including live music on the second floor and art exhibits. They even sponsor a recreational soccer team.
"Historically, breweries have always played a central role within their communities," the brewery's website says."We strive to reclaim that idea here in Marquette."
Other beers to try:Reclamation IPA (7%), Bum's Beach Wheat (5.8%), Saison (7.1%).
Keweenaw Brewing Company
408 Shelden Ave., Houghton
Most craft beer drinkers have heard of Keweenaw Brewing; it's the U.P.'s largest brewery, producing more than 11,000 barrels in 2018, according to state tax data. But its taproom in beautiful downtown Houghton is a highlight for anyone traveling through the Keweenaw Peninsula.
The 3,400-square-foot space has plenty of room inside, with two bars and a comfortable seating area around a fireplace. During the summer, the outside deck provides a nice view across the river to Hanco*ck.
Though the taproom doesn't have a kitchen, many local restaurants will provide delivery.
Perhaps the most popular beer on the menu is the Widow Maker Black Ale (5.2%), which is nice, malty and roasty when it's fresh. The Pick Axe Blonde (4.9%) is a good entry-level option for newbie drinkers, with a clean finish.
Other beers to try:Wequetong Cherry (4.4%), Red Jacket Amber (5.5%), Azacca IPA (4.4%).
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Cognition Brewing Company
113 E. Canda St., Ishpeming
Some of the best beer in the Upper Peninsula is brewed and sold in the formerboiler room of the historic Mather Inn.
The Mather Inn is legendary in these parts. Built in 1931, it's probably most notable forhousingthe cast of the 1959film "Anatomy of a Murder" starring James Stewart, Lee Remick and featuring music byDuke Ellington. It was named to the National Register of Historic Places in 1978. And while the hotel has been closed since 1987, its sunken boiler room— once converted into a co*cktail bar that had been closed for two decades — becameCognition Brewing Company in 2015.
It was an effort by owner Jay Clancey not just to brew great beer, but to "breathe new life" into downtown Ishpeming, where threeof his fourgrandparents were born. In fact, one of his grandfathers gave the dedication speech for the Mather Inn back in 1931.
"This is definitely more fun than being an electrical contractor," Clanceysaid. And though he had been locked in a long, tenuous court battle with the brewery's landlord, he plans on sticking around and brewing beer for a long time.
The Gnome Wrecker (5.9%) is Cognition's signature, a Belgian-style pale ale with a good balance of orange and coriander with aclean finish. But the best brew on this visit was Bloody Scream (5%), a blood orange cream ale that Clancey said became the top seller when it was tapped several months ago. Another fan favorite is the Trinity of Spires (6.1%), a smoky black ale.
Other beers to try:Oblivion Milk Stout (5%), Schooner Hazy IPA (6.3%).
Blackrocks Brewery
424 N. 3rd St., Marquette
The first time you walk up to Blackrocks, you might miss it.
As mentioned earlier, it's nestled near the corner of Michigan and 3rd St., just north of the main downtown district of Marquette, where there's a balanced mix of businesses and residential housing. And while Blackrockslookslike a residential house, it's actually a brewpub that just happens to feel like home.
The atmosphere is charming, especially during the summer, when the patio area loops around from the front to the back, with plenty of room to chat, enjoy the fire or simply listen to music.
And then there's the beer. The 51K IPA (7% ABV) is Blackrocks' most popular, an American IPA with a pleasant blend of grapefruit, apricot and piney hop notes. But the MYKISS IPA (7.5% ABV) might be one of the best IPAs in the state. It uses Simcoe, Citra and Mosaic hops to create a succulent citrus taste, refreshing for warm summer nights.
Other beers to try:Coconut Brown (6%), Honey Lav (5.2%), Presque Ale (5.5%).
[From 2017: How the U.P. won over a CEO from New York]
Soo Brewing Company
223 W. Portage Ave., Sault Ste. Marie
So you're in Sault Ste. Marie, fresh off of watching the Soo Locks in (slow) action. Why not enjoy some local beer afterward?
Soo Brewing, a microbrewery on 223 W. Portage Ave. in downtown, is a logical option within easy walking distance and a pleasant, casual setting. Like many Upper Peninsula bars and brewpubs, it's full of U.P. decor, from Lake Superior State flags to life rafts to historic photos of the town itself.
The beer options may be limited— there were fiveon this particular visit— but each one satisfies the palate, whether you crave a nice, hoppy IPA or a dark coffee porter. The Cup Of The Day Porter (5.4%), brewed with 7 pounds of Espresso, is quite coffee-forward with a slight bitterness on the finish, good for anyone who likes dark beer or just needs to wake up. Another noteworthy try is the Soo Grand Cru (6.7%), a Belgian witbier with plenty of orange up front with coriander notes.
(If you're in the area, another place to try is the1668 Winery and Lockside Brewery, which is just down the street on Portage. It was closed on my visit, but it serves both beer and wine for those looking for either.)
Other beers to try:Laker Gold (5.2%), 13 Imperial IPA (7.9%).
[5 crushable Michigan beers for warm, sunny days]
East Channel Brewing Company
209 Maple St., Munising
Munising is among the Upper Peninsula's most popular summer destinations, with Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and Grand Island right nearby. Thankfully, there's a good brewery right in town to stave off the thirst after a long day outdoors.
East Channel opened in 2016 and typically offers six to 10 beers on a given day, with two floors of seating. It's not big, but that's part of its charm; any fan of hole-in-the-wall type bars and breweries will come to enjoy the ambiance.
The best beer on the menu is the Speedball Tucker IPA (5.7%), a smooth, hazy IPA with grapefruit notes and a bitter finish. The Lake Street Stout (5.6%) is a drinkable oatmeal stout with a lighter body and mouthfeel.
Other beers to try:Old Tru's IPA (7.7%), Yip-Yawd Black Ale (6.7%), Portside Red Ale (5.3%).
Upper Hand Brewery
3525 Airport Rd., Escanaba
Owned by Larry Bell of Bell's Brewery, Upper Hand offerings can be found just about anywhere that serves beer in the Upper Peninsula (and only the U.P., save for some spots in northern Wisconsin and Minnesota).
Located just outside downtown Escanaba, the Upper Hand taproom, behind the Delta County Airport, is small, but has an outdoor patio area and is dog-friendly, with 5 acres of land. This writer couldn't make it to the taproom on this particular visit, but several locals recommended it as a stop along the southern U.P.
The Upper Hand IPA (7%) uses Amarillo and Mosaic hops to create a hoppy, rich IPA with tropical notes and a bitter finish. If you can find it, the Barrel-aged Old Fighter (13%) is a delicious barleywine, and the Escanaba Black (4.5%) is dependable and malty.
Other beers to try:Laughing Fish Kolsch (4.9%), Double Ringer (10%), 906 Ale (9.06%).
More U.P. breweries to try
Looking to do the full tour? Each of these breweries are a part of the Michigan Brewers Guild and located in the Upper Peninsula. In alphabetical order:
Alpha Michigan Brewing Co., 303 East Center Street, Alpha
Barrel and Beam, 260 Northwoods Rd., Marquette
Brickside Brewery, 64 Gratiot St., Copper Harbor
Cold Iron Brewing, 140 S. Lowell St., Ironwood
Hereford & Hops, 624 Ludington St., Escanaba
Jasper Ridge Brewery, 1075 Country Ln., Ishpeming
Lake Superior Brewing Co., N-14283 Lake Ave., Grand Marais
Les Cheneaux Distillers, 172 S. Meridian, Cedarville
Red Jacket Brewing Company, 300 6th St., Calumet
Superior Coast Brewery, 447 W. Portage Ave., Sault Ste. Marie
Superior Culture, 717 N. 3rd St., Marquette
Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub, 24019 Upper Falls Dr., Paradise
The Vierling Restaurant & Marquette Harbor Brewery, 119 S. Front St., Marquette
Spirits of Detroitwriter Brian Manzullo covers craftalcohol for the Free Press. Contact him:bmanzullo@freepress.com andonUntappd,bmanzullo andTwitter,@BrianManzulloand@SpiritsofDET.
